On the dusty fringes of Phoenix where Arizona still looks like itself a little rough and tumble with barbed wire ’round the edges lies a cotton field gone fallow. It’s sprinkled with tumbleweeds, beer bottles and a cast off couch cushion,
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This little plot of nothing is where one of the world’s finest cottons began, where Supima was born in 1910. Later it would get all gussied up to travel the globe,
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It turns out that the best cotton on Earth is not Egyptian,
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But oh, that Egypt an entire country’s worth of sexy cotton lore is a hard brand to trump. Imagine cotton plants sunning along the Nile, or even Marc Antony and Cleopatra throwing down between Egyptian cotton sheets, tousled just so. "Sacatonian cotton" just doesn’t have that magic sound.

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The Supima execs have intimate chats with the people at Lands’ End and Nordstrom and then put out industry newsletters on the state of the boll weevil cotton plague. They tout to the masses that Oprah anointed Supima Splendid Sweats as her favorite. They drop into China and wax poetic about Supima cotton’s roots, how the plants were coaxed along in the desert by the Pima Indians. (Curlee has a Texas accent. Cowboys and Indians. It helps.)

Their entire existence is wrapped up in trumpeting to the world the additional 3/8 of an inch that makes Supima cotton fibers extra long and ultra glorious, and bedsheets woven from it all slithery and soft. Well, that and trying to conquer the lore of Egyptian cotton and the persnickety problem of the human mind.

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There’s the Pork Board,
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So it’s a slight problem for this Supima office, then, that the sliver of memory that stores your ideas about cotton is occupied by Egypt.

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Instead, they have to sneak into your heart like every other marketer and dream up ways to bring the cotton fields to the pages of People magazine. They must marry old American traditions (the fabric of our lives) with new American obsessions (the fabric of Angelina Jolie’s life) and exorcise Egypt, all at the same time.

Lewkowitz and Curlee are also contending with a global market way beyond the Nile. To sell Americans their cotton, they have to sell Supima to such countries as China, India and Pakistan. Mills there buy cotton, spin and weave or knit it into fabric, and then sell it across the world.

Then there’s the matter of the growers, who help pay the salaries at Supima, a non profit group. Ever met a cotton farmer? They’ll seduce you in eight minutes flat with their weathered skin, jaunty plaid shirts and souls so dear that Curlee and Lewkowitz work like fiends to do them proud. They worry over the growers’ problems just as anxiously as their own.

And do those farmers ever have drama: water woes, immigration issues, even reliance on a Phoenix moth breeding factory to keep the boll weevil at bay and the cotton plants alive and well. (It’s by the airport, churns out 22 million bugs per day and is just as creepy as it sounds.) This is an especially cruel year for cotton: Supima growers are expected to bring in their smallest harvest in years. Farmers need to make money,
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But cotton supply and demand is fickle, and a small crop this year should mean higher prices next year,
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"We don’t want Supima in Walmart," Curlee says. They’ve decided to spin Supima into something stylish and sexy instead, which means Lewkowitz and Curlee are now hiring hipsters and learning to speak MTV. It’s an odd fit, considering they can’t quite pronounce the names of the magazines they want to get into.

"Did you see it?" says Curlee one triumphant afternoon. "We got a write up in E l l e."

Dignified and business minded,
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Surely no one could care that much about cotton.

The Home Depot Training Center and a Tile Warehouse loom large on a workaday strip of Broadway Road in Phoenix that used to be covered in cotton fields. Between these symbols of suburban sprawl, a low slung ranch house holds the Supima headquarters.

Secretary Nancy Boyd has been watching over Mr. Curlee, as she calls him, since 1980. (Lewkowitz came aboard a few years ago.) She was 22 when she started, is 51 now, and "hasn’t done a thing,
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But there it is,
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In the back room: samples from Lacoste, Brooks Brothers, Target and Saks Fifth Avenue.

Now their ad campaigns are splashy cotton and the city pictorials that run about $25,
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Months later, the Supima office has another tone. There is obsessing over the tags stores attach to Supima products.

"When you just say ‘Inspire Your Senses,’ it doesn’t mean anything. It’s not enough. You’ve got to put a cotton boll in there. You’ve got to say ‘World’s Finest Cotton,’ or ‘Cotton for Fashion,’ " he says. "We’re not Nike."

Lewkowitz and Curlee have cotton for company as they squire Supima around the globe. In South Asia, Lewkowitz turned down a street one day and strolled beneath "eight stories of drying laundry," he says, cotton sheets strung between the buildings, "it almost made a roof."

He gets a thrill from seeing the cotton saris in India and even the cotton thong underwear promoters hand out on the street in Colombia.

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